Church and Union is the kind of restaurant that people put on their must-try list before they even land in Charleston, and the space does a lot of the work: a dramatic, high-ceilinged room on historic Market Street next to its sister restaurant Tempest, with a modern, upscale look that photographs well and feels more like a design showroom than a dining room. It's a 5th Street Group concept - the group behind the buzzy spots in Atlanta - and the menu is modern-American with a playful edge, helmed by Top Chef alum Chef Partner Jamie Lynch alongside Chef Partner Adam Hodgson and Executive Chef Doug Watson. The food lands: seared ahi tuna, gnocchi, wagyu bulgogi lettuce wraps, and a pavlova that shows up in more than one review.
It's priced accordingly, which is the main thing people argue about. Locals are split - some think it's worth it for a special occasion, others find it overpriced and the room more about the experience than the meal. The front bar is a good way in if you don't want the full commitment, with solid cocktails. The crowd skews tourist-heavy and on the celebratory side - anniversaries, birthday dinners, first nights in town - and the service is polished enough to match the occasion, even if the décor does a little too much of the talking.